Monthly Archives: February 2012

The situation in the studio: hand colored prints

Hand printing is by nature an imperfect process.  Some of the prints come out perfect, others less so.  Since I have been out of practice and working in improvised facilities a lot of my prints have come out less than perfect.  I’ve been keeping these and experimenting with different ways of using them.  One of the first ideas I had was to hand color them with acrylic washes.  Here are a couple of the initial attempts:

Most of these prints were from the last print of that color.  The screen would start getting clogged and parts of the print weren’t coming through.  The blue and purple one has a smear on the right side near the middle.  I have a bunch more that have bigger issues and I’m not sure yet what I am going to do with them. I may cut them up and rearrange them.  Not sure yet.

The washes are all really light.  I found that the color came out smoother when I had less pigment in the wash.  The paper is thick enough were it can take some water without buckling too bad but a few of the bigger areas were problematic in this regard.  I was controlling saturation by laying down additional coats of color after the first had dried. I think this probably added to the buckling issue but it still wasn’t that bad.

I really like how the light washes look against the really bright printed line, especially the red and blue.  I will probably set a few “good” prints aside from a future run to hand color.  I think this could add another level of iteration by allowing to change the way color is used to construct the figure.  It could be interesting.  I have a few more things I want to try this week, I will post when I have pictures.

The situation in the studio right now

Still experimenting with the paint pens.  My favorite so far is the On the Run 7mm. I am working on a set of prints that are 11″x14″ which is smaller than the prints I have been making.  I did some sketches to get a better feel for that size.  These are done with a very lightly water-thinned Phthalo blue:

Variations in Registration and Color

My recent multi-linear paintings have all overlaid intersecting lines to create specific figures.  These have all been specific choices and also immediately whole; meaning that I draw the figure all at once and specifically choose which lines overlay when painting.  The recent series of prints have involved multiple separate whole figures overlaid to mimic the multi-linear effect of the paintings.

Close up of #420

3 green lines in painting #420

I say these are immediately whole because the drawings are done all at once in one continuous motion, and the overlay is chosen after, when I am painting.

Number 417 with the original sketch from 6/5/11

Number 417 with the original sketch from 6/5/11 - This shows the original figure was drawn all in one motion at one time. There are multiple strokes in the drawing (some of which are do to the pen "skipping" because of the speed) but there was no conscious pause or switch in colors. Each stroke was still part of the same brief moment.

Close up of 417 with the original sketch

The colors were chosen during the act of painting

The current set of prints are made by overlying 3 ‘complete’ but comparatively simple figures to approximate the complexity of my recent paintings. All of my work features several similar shapes repeating in different chaotic combinations to produce unique figures.  By overlaying several complete shapes and varying the registration, chaotic differences emerge in the  finished prints.  I feel this builds on the conceptual basis of my work in infinite variation.

Since each print is composed of the same elements, combining them in different ways allows us to examine the ways the elements are similar and different. This is an expansion of the same ideas in my large drawing installation in Further Complications.  That installation allowed the viewer to compare and contrast 7920 individual consecutive moments on the same plane, in order.  The prints remove the elements of order and time; instead directly comparing shape by placing the images over one another.  By not trying to control the registration of the screens I introduce a chaotic element into the iterations that allows different shapes in the stroke to be contrasted.

Here are the original elements:

 

The three element of the 2/19/12 Prints

Here is the first variation, in Red, Orange and Turquoise:

Red, Orange, Turquoise - All 3 variations

3 variations in Red, Orange and Turquoise. Click the picture to view it full size.

Here are another 4 variations in Orange, Turquoise and Chrome Oxide:

4 variations in Orange, Turquoise and Chrome Oxide

4 variations in Orange, Turquoise and Chrome Oxide - click on the image to view full size.

The final print I did of this set is in Turquoise, Green and Brown:

Final variation in Turquoise, Green and Brown

The final variation in Turquoise, Green and Brown. I only did one in this color combination.

 

More prints

I am continuing to experiment with screen printing. Now that I have the process down I am free to make more directed experiments with colors and overlays.  I have found that 2 and 3 color variations work best.  4 and 5 colors seems to be too much for my current figures.  Here are some of my more successful two-color variations:

Dioxazine Purple and Chromium Oxide Green

Dioxazine Purple and Chromium Oxide Green

 

Dioxazine Purple and Turquoise (Phthalo)

Dioxazine Purple and Turquoise (Phthalo)

Turquoise (Phthalo) and Chromium Oxide Green

Turquoise (Phthalo) and Chromium Oxide Green

Three colors:

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green and Napthol Red/Hansa Yellow

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green and Napthol Red/Hansa Yellow

The green went down first, then the brown finally the translucent red.  Because the purple is so dark there is only an overlay effect from the red.  Either red over green or red over purple.

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green and Napthol Red/Hansa Yellow (close up)

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green and Napthol Red/Hansa Yellow (close up)

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo)

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo)

Since the turquoise went down first, there is no overlay effect at all.

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo) (close up)

Raw Umber, Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo) (close up)

Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo) and Yellow/Green Oxide

Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo) and Yellow/Green Oxide

I used two greens on this one.  The first layer was a full Chrome Oxide Green.  The oxides are all pretty opaque colors.  The Phthalo is very translucent, so there is an overlay effect on the second layer.  The third layer is a mix of Chrome Oxide Green and Yellow Oxide which is also very opaque.  This has been a favorite color mix of mine for a long time.  I like that the overlay is limited to the middle layer.

Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo) and Yellow/Green Oxide (close up)

Chromium Oxide Green, Turquoise (Phthalo) and Yellow/Green Oxide (close up)

I am continuing to experiment with the technique of printing.  During this recent set of prints I started playing with the ratio of Golden Screen Print Medium to paint.  Using more than 50% medium with the heavy body paints definitely allows more transparent layers.  This does affect the fluidity of the paint mixture though and you can easily over-flood the screen with paint if you are not careful.  I found that with some of the medium to paint mixtures that I did not need to do a flood stroke.  Just pushing the ink through the screen on one pull was enough to get a clean print.

Corn Syrup and Dish Soap: cheaper and better line quality

Corn Syrup and Dish Soap: cheaper and better line quality

I read somewhere that you can make your own drawing fluid from corn syrup and dish soap.  I looked for recipes that specified how much of each but I couldn’t find anything.  So I just started mixing them.  Based on my limited experiments I can tell you I got best results when I used mostly corn syrup.  If you add too much dish soap the fluid will be too watery and it will bubble too much.  The main benefit to making your own, aside from much lower cost, is that you can control how thick it is. For the type of line work I am doing, I have found that a thicker drawing fluid produces better results.

I put a few of these up on the Prints page.  I will add more soon.

 

The situation in the studio right now

So I got some new toys:

Pens

The filled one is an On The Run 7mm. The replacement nips are next to it. The ArtPrimo mops are still in the bags in back.

I have been telling myself to check out refillable paint pens for awhile.  I have had not so great luck with the regular kind filled with enamel paint with the pump action nib.   I was never happy with the line quality and I found a lot of the colors would bleach out in the sun.  But a lot of companies are now making refillable ones that you can fill with whatever you want. I checked out a bunch of different places online and ended up placing an order from ArtPrimo.com who have a great selection of empty markers.  About $20 later I had an assortment of pens in 2 different sizes coming to my house. I started by just pouring the regular golden fluid acrylic in the markers.  It works enough, but the line quality improved with a few drops of water.

So this happened:

A gold variation

After each layer I added one drop of black to the pen

Raw Umber

This pen was the most fun to use. It was an 11mm nib with a super squeezy bottle. Big thick line.

Red and 2 blues

One of the more successful multi color variations.

 

Red, Blue and And Light Blue

The light blue is more opaque because of the titanium added. The darker blue looks almost black where it overlaps the red.

So I am definitely still playing with these.  They are capable of a very long stroke, far longer than a brush.  I am not totally in love with the line quality but that may get fixed when I get the optimal water to paint ratio figured out. Still playing with it.  I think the next will use lighter colors.  These are all about 20″ x 30″ done on a heavy paper, 90lb cotton the same as I have been using for the prints.  Here is a close up:

Close up

I may eventually get used to this line.